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Virginia Eats

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Virginia might be considered a Mid-Atlantic state in modernity, but as any history buff can attest, its roots are throughly Southern, from red-eye gravy and grits to fried chicken and barbecue ribs. But though you’ll find this fare at local diners, or historic taverns, even social gatherings, it should also become quickly apparent that the tree has long branched off in other directions, shaped by the proximity of salty bay and Atlantic Ocean, the closeness of the nation’s cosmopolitan capital city and the enthusiastic spread of the wine industry, traceable, of course, to Thomas Jefferson.

In a nutshell? Do try Smithfield ham, of course, the genuine article licensed to be made only in Smithfield, and find a handful of peanuts while you’re in the Hampton Roads area so that you can say, at least, that you’ve tried them; but really, this close to the ocean and bay it’s fresh sea food that should steer your culinary quest. A recent advertising campaign with environmentalism as its focus urges viewers to “Save the Crabs, Then Eat ‘Em”; if you’ve ever tasted a blue crab from around the Bay you’ll understand what all fuss is about. Seasonally, look also for soft shelled crabs, oysters, and up around Chincoteague Island, clams. Wachapreague is known for its flounder, but in the general region you also might see locally caught tuna on the menu.

Venture inland, towards Virginia’s verdant heart, and discover the state’s surprisingly rural side, from open fields to the rolling vineyards which form the backbone of the local wine industry. Thanks to a climate well suited towards grape growing, Virginia wineries can produce a long list of wine varietals, though particularly popular are grapes like the Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Seyval Blanc, Norton, and Syrah. Continue on west into the Shenandoah Valley and the same apples and peaches that hang heavy on the trees late summer (ripe for you-pick customers) and early autumn also show up in specialty fruit wines crafted close to this agricultural area. Need some solid food to supplement your sipping habits? In Northern Virginia seek out fresh Shiitake mushrooms and tender trout, or try more traditional foods in a historic tavern, like biscuits and gravy, or a steaming bowl of Brunswick stew with spoon bread in Brunswick County, farther south.

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